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The Isthmus of Kra's slightly pretentious slogan is 'The art of food', but this is one restaurant where
substance backs up the words. Each dish is exquisitely presented, with careful consideration of colour and
proportion, and the mouth is just as well catered for as the eyes. From the Kra Beef, simple Pad Thai or
their signature roast duck red curry, the food really does border on art. The highlight, though, has to be
the lightly grilled oysters, served with basil, spiced lime and lemongrass - utterly sublime. You eat in
artistic surrounds, with crepuscular spot lighting picking out ochres, golden browns and glinting metal, and
the intense, passionate atmosphere is all-pervading. The cuisine is not purely Thai, but is so good you don't
really care. The award-winning wine list rounds out a fabulous dining experience.
Restaurant of the month
Concierge Melbourne
Industry Magazine 2003 November Issue
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The Age Good Food Guide Review 2005
IN a city bereft of top-end Thai eateries, the Isthmus of Kra has long been regarded as Melbourne's best exponent of
this diverse and subtle cuisine. An antique wooden statue of Hanuman has greeted countless diners over the years, while
behind him a colourful wall mural depicts mystical serpents lolling in a rolling swell. Undressed laminated tables are the
only concession to function, at odds with otherwise stylish surrounds. Blessed with legions of loyal patrons, the kitchen has
applied the 'if it ain't broke' principle from early days, and little wonder with winners like fragrant red curry swimming
with roast duck pieces, or whole barramundi gently poached until its flesh is redolent of lemongrass, ginger and basil.
Newcomers and regulars alike get a kick out of Beh Kim Un's famed celadon dumplings. These delicately pleated morsels might be doughy
and bland but the novelty of blue food - coloured by pea flowers - is hard to resist. Desserts appeal more to Western tastes, and the steamed
chocolate pud with vanilla-seed custard is bound to satisfy. One of the better Asian food-friendly wine lists in town.
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